This is where modern landscape painting began. The villages around the Fontainebleau forest each tell a different chapter of that story — from the famous colony of Barbizon to the quieter banks of the Loing river at Grez-sur-Loing and Moret-sur-Loing. A little further west, Cernay-la-Ville offers yet another chapter — a quieter, lesser-known colony in the valley of the Chevreuse, well worth the detour.